by Jay Erisman, EQ Wine and Spirits Manager
As soon as our marvelous regulatory bureaucracy legalized the sale of absinthe last year, it was only a matter of time before America’s intrepid craft distillers took up the challenge of the Green Fairy. Now our first American absinthe has hit the shelf here in Bellevue. It’s Sirène Absinthe Verte, from Chicago’s North Shore Distillery. Absinthe is an acid test of the distiller’s art, and achieving a balanced artisanal absinthe is no mean feat. We’re pleased to report that Derek and Sonja Kassebaum at North Shore have nailed it with Sirène.
Sirène is an absinthe verte, or green absinthe. In the tradition of the finest absinthes, the rich color is naturally derived from an herbal infusion after distillation. The distillation takes place after an initial infusion of the “holy trinity” of absinthe herbs—grand wormwood, sweet fennel, and green anise–in grain alcohol. Of course, Derek Kassebaum chucks in a host of other top secret botanicals. The result is an uncommonly round, richly textured absinthe, with good licorice-fennel character but also a shimmering profusion of herbs. The aroma particularly is high-toned, almost floral, and very fresh. It departs somewhat from the European absinthe norm, definitely striding out with its own bold character.
We’ll feature North Shore Sirène in tonight’s American Craft Spirit tasting. And stay tuned for more domestic artisan absinthes later this year. 2008 is coming up green at The Party Source!